back

el cantinero

EL CANTINERO (5 out of 5 chips) Location: South of Union Square This cheesy two-level restaurant serves ten glorious individually prepared nachos, laid out artfully on a large plate with a pile of shredded lettuce and a dollop of sour cream as the centerpiece. I stress that these are individually prepared—as in, not the pile method—so every topping is lovingly placed on each chip. The holy grail of nacho preparation techniques. Toppings: melted monterey-jack cheese, loads of ground beef, and 1-2 large jalapeño slices per chip. The ground beef is a bit sloppy and overpowering—maybe would try a different meat or unmeat next time. Pros: Every bite designed to achieve full nacho impact. Cons: Chips were a bit burnt. Also, you can only get the happy hour discount at the upstairs bar, a terrifying dark room with dance beats blaring, packed with douchebags in suits. Tip: Eat in the garden. And even though you can't get the drink special, get a pitcher of margs.